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Sunday, December 19, 2010

678

Today was one of those beautifully simple Cairo days I will miss so much.
Sophie, Margaux and I went into town this evening for dinner at one of our favorite spots, then headed downtown to see a new Egyptian movie called 678. 

Seeing movies in Egypt is an experience, let's just say. We had a lot of fun with it. After running around lost for a while and telling people we speak "a little" arabic, we finally made it into the theater. We are 'those three foreign girls' after all; giggly and lost and confused but happy to be there, hahaha.
Egyptian theaters are a little less glamorous than the dollar theater in my town. They're nice enough. What really gets me is the movie etiquette that was never introduced to Cairo. You'll find babies running down the isles, and of cooourse people answer their phones.. after letting it ring for a few moments longer than necessary. And my new favorite: there was a man smoking inside the theater....
It's all part of the experience =)

The movie was increddddible.
678 is centered around three women and their plight dealing with sexual harassment on a daily basis on the streets of Cairo. It is based on true accounts and the first sexual harassment court case in Cairo.
The movie follows the stories of Abdel, Seba and Nelly, three Egyptian women. 
Abdel is a vailed women who is forced by financial constraints to take a public bus to work every day. On the bus she is harassed every day by men who do everything from verbally harass her to grabbing her in public and even exposing themselves and pressing their bodies against her. Eventually she gets fed up and decides to take matters into her own hands and defend herself. 
She goes to a support group run by Seba who was assaulted during a futball match. She wants to teach women how to speak out against harassment and she tells Abdel that she needs to defend herself, not knowing that Abdel will resort to stabbing her attackers. But the two stick together as a detective starts looking into the cases and exposes the "victims" for their perversion.
Nelly is the third protagonist who is pressing charges on a man who groped her while she was walking and dragged her along the the street with his car. The movie shows as she struggles to get the police to hear her case and how her family encourages her to just let it go.
It was a really brilliant movie and showed so many aspects of Egyptian life, even the morning rutein of the women. Many of us may take this for granted, but if you're walking alone in the city a lot of thought has to go in to what you wear and what kind of transportation you should take. Another really interesting point was that the movie showed how the men don't differentiate between girls in western dress or in hijab, everyone gets harassed if they're alone. 

The director Mohammed Diab said "I made this film to break the silence of women. The short term solution for sexual harassment is that women should not feel ashamed when they get harassed and they should speak out.” 
But only 5% do speak out although at least 80% of women in Egypt say they experience harassment on a regular basis. So! This needs to change, and this movie was astoundingly inspiring!




“Everyday I ride the bus and everyday I get harassed.  How, after all that, do you want me to be rational?”

Get it guuurl, stand up for yourself!! =)
Absolutely loooved it.

Also, on a personal level... it was SO cool understanding 10% of the arabic, and watching them walk around areas I'm familiar with =) And I feel very empowered! Well done 678!!

Saturday, December 18, 2010

Fatimid Cairo Photos

All stolen from Dr. Gomez-Rivas, my Shia Islam in History professor.
A beautiful day in the heart of the city on the brink of the sand storm.






Shi'i only make up 15% of the Muslim
community, but they're there!

The streets near Khan

Salam alekum


Munir and I talking about how cute those three girls are next to us!

I sooo loved this class!!

And I sooo love this city

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

7allas (I am done with arabic!)

This was my final presentation:
(Obviously you don't have to read it but I feel like sharing it/ preserving it) Shook!

Saba7elhair! Esmi Kjrstin! Ena min Amerika leken dilwati ena taliba fi il gema America fi el Cahera Gadida fi Masr. Bedris il oha arabic, adub engleezy, teri7 Masr, deen Shia wu moosik7a. Moosik7a heya hayeti <3 ohib owey baakheni! Et welet fi South Carolina, baden roht li Florida. Baden aysha fi California ken andi teletasher. Baba bishte7rel fil cinisa wu mama moazafa. Andi a7h wahed, esmo Andrew. Wu andi kelib wahed, esmo Cleo... patra... Fi CA ena ba3shtena fi il maktaba fi gema.

Ahib owey hayeti fi Masr. A7sen maken andi Masr. Koolio ena sa3ida owey hena. Ahsahbi wu ena nroht li Sharm el Shakh, Luxor wu Istanbul fi agezed. Fi Sharm el Shakh sabe7na fi il shatr wu nshooft David Guetta. Fi ageza Eid Shukran nroht li Lixor bil aut. Ken whish owey il aut!! Ken zibela wu dowsha wu ken izez maksur! Ken zehma wu oaf fil arabaya seya etnain. Lekennnnnn.... baden shooft Luxor Temple, ken gamil owey!! Nshooft Karnak, Valley of the Kings wu Hatshepsut's Court. Ken helween!! Fi ageza mo7terif, nroht li Istanbul. Istanbul heya 7relly, mo7terif an Masr. Leken ahibit owey Istanbul. Il Hagia Sophia ken gamil owey. Baden negat hena. Fil wati shooft il sheruh shems adem ahramat! Ahib owey il safar leken ahib Masr katir.

Yarit aysha hena. Haftakil owey Masr wu ahsa7bi hena.
Insha'allah ena haga hena badekemsa!!

7obiktir wu shukran,
Kj



(( Good morning, my name is Kjrstin. I'm from America but now I am a student at the American University in Cairo. I study arabic, english literature, history, Shia religion and music. Music is my life, I love to sing!
I was born in South Carolina, then I went to Florida, then I moved to California when I was 12. My dad works in a church (there's no word for chaplain, just go with it) and my mom is a government employee (my teacher doesn't understand what a social worker is so I just gave up..) I have one brother, his name is Andrew. I have one dog, her name is Cleo. In California, I work at the library at my school.
I really love my life in Egypt. My favorite place is Egypt. Here I am happy every day.
My friends and I went to Sharm, Luxor and Istanbul for the holidays. In Sharm we swam and saw David Guetta. For Thanksgiving, we went to Luxor on the train. The train was awful. It was loud and dirty and there was broken glass (lol). It was crowded and we had to stand in between cars for three hours. But! then we saw Luxor and it was really beautiful. We saw Karnak, Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut's Court. It was gorgeous! For a different holiday we went to Istanbuk. Istanbul is expensive, different than Egypt. But I liked Istanbul a lot. Hagia Sophia is beautiful. Then we came home. I love to travel but I like Egypt best.
Later I watched the sun rise behind the pyramids! I wish to live here. I will miss Egypt and my friends here very much.
God willing, I will come back here after a few years!!
Lot's of love and thank you (to my teacher) KJ ))


I love Arabic.
THE END!

Monday, December 13, 2010

Happiness and Cheer

Christmas time is here! We found some evidence in the coptic neighborhood in Doqqi! It was magical =)
And the weather outside is more than frightful, so there ya go!

CHRISTMAS!!
 This weekend was jam-packed full of more amazing memories, and more reasons I feel so torn leaving here. That's not to say I'm not excited to go home and see everyone, it's just that I really do love it here. It's definitely been some of the best months of my life.

The week was really nice too, full of cake and celebration and finally I hung out with some girls from campus, our Egyptian friend Randa took us shopping, she is really sweet. And then after that we went to see the Cairo Choral Society perform the Messiah. It was a really nice week!!

This one's for the Christmas card!
This weekend, we celebrated Margaux, Sophie and Aaron's birthdays! Thursday night we went out to Cairo Jazz Club, but before that we had some cake at the apartment. Alex bought a xmas tree!!!!! It was the best surprise ever, we all just about died. We took some awkward family photos with it, it was glorious. Then we headed out to Cairo Jazz to meet Aaron and his posse. Basically every non-study abroad friend we have was there, it was reallllly fun!!
The next morning we woke up and watched some BBC and arabic news with a cup of tea before heading out for Sophie's birthday picnic! We got some cinnamon rolls and a bucket of KFC and took to the streets. Our original plan was to crash a private garden and eat in there, but after hopping the fence we found it to be a little too dirty. We ended up doing the most authentic Egyptian thing one can do and ate on a curb across from a toy store, lavishly decorated in Santa Clauses.
It was an awesome day just walking around and discovering things! We found a grocery store, fruit market, Nike store and a huuuuge candy store.... yummmm! I bought the Mummy Returns with arabic subtitles. Pretty exciting. And some shoes for the choir concert tomorrow.
It was a really lovely day =)
We ended the night at our favorite restaurant, Falfela (the one I mention all. the. time. because it is wonderful). We ate some delicious felafel and tehena and eggplant concoctions. Later our friend Mohamed joined us for a while (his family owns it actually, so he was in the neighborhood), and we had some delicious cake which Alex made a waiter go buy and bring back! Haha! It was awesome. Alex is the king of birthdays. We even got the whole restaurant singing!! "Sana helwa ya gamil!!"

EGYPTIAN!!!!!
Twenty One-derful <3
The next day I had a field trip with my Shia Islam in History class. We walked around the oldest part of Cairo, where Khan el Kalili is and the fortress wall. Our objective was to see Fatimid mosques because the Fatimids were Shii. So we stopped at some amazing sites and had a great time just walking around, the area is really cool, and I love all my classmates!! 

"We go to the mosques to study and pray!"
SURE =)))

One of the supposed burial sites of Hussein,
grandson of Muhammad and son of Ali


I love them soo much

The view from the top of the fortress gate
Did I mention there was a sand storm? =/



SO! Hallas, the weekend was really awesome and insha'allah this one will be awesome too, it's our last hoorah! =)

9 days until I'm home! <3




PS. Sometimes I just drive by the pyramids =)))))

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

احب مصر

Last week Sophie and Alex found their apartment for next semester! They (....we) got to start moving in on the first, and we've been having a blast there. First of all... the American dollar goes sooo beautifully far here, hamdullila!! My dear Eskander and Sophia are living in fully furnished flat with three bedrooms (5 beds), two bath, two living rooms, kitchen, three balconies, deep freezer, television, radios and internet, for less then a two room studio apartment in downtown Bakersfield. Seriously. And it's in a great area!! The part of town is called Doqqi, it's a 5-10 minute ride to Zamelek (the neighborhood we spend the most time in) and two metro stops away from downtown. And it's family oriented, not touristic at all, annnnnd the whole building is Coptic. It's so perfect, I'm sooo proud of them for finding such a perfect place!

Their first night there we had a delicious home-cooked meal, it was so perfect. Then on monday night we spent the night there after celebrating Margaux's birthday at a restaurant called Crave and returning for the most delicious cake ever, purchased by Papa Eskander.

Sitting room number 2
Mama cookin' a delicious meal!

Coptic decorations, wooh!
Happy Birsday to you!!



The next day we went to the citadel, Sultan Hassan Mosque and the Cairo Museum!
It was an awesome full and fun day, and now I feel like I've seen every big tourist spot I need to see in Cairo.

The Citadel is gorgeous! It's a huge complex which has been rebuilt under a few different sultans and caliphs, but it was originally the palace of Sultan Saladin. Today, it's mainly a tourist stop but the mosque is still used. There is also a military compound. And it has the most incredible view of the city.
The Citadel from the street
Citadel plus cute children =)
The courtyard 
The grounds around it. That tree has been trimmed into the word "Allah!!"
Inside the Mosque
The view from the West side of the grounds,
Can you see the pyramids?!?!!
Classic team TINA: Margaux being silly, Alex photo-
bombing and Sophie taking a thousand pictures <3
<3

We walked around the grounds and then headed over to a mosque called the Sultan Hassan Mosque. It's one of the most beautiful ones I have seen, I really loved it.

Sultan Hassan Mosque from down the street

Marg and I inside

Inside the mosque and part of the courtyard


Cairo Museum front entrance
After the mosque we met up with my Egyptology class and toured the Cairo Museum!!!
Let's just say: dream come true. I mean, history right in front of you. It was the best thing ever. The museum is not really well organized and most of the artifacts are not being properly preserved, people were touching statuary, there aren't many plaques describing the pieces... but if you go with an Egyptologist, it's awesome.
We weren't aloud to take cameras inside otherwise this blog post would be very very long. But it was incredible!! I FINALLY saw all the King Tut stuff!!! He's so beautiful!! You know, his mask is worth more than the crown jewels of England? It's huge and intricate and solllllid gold. And his sarcophagi are SO cool. And his jewelry is gorgeous. Ah, I loved it so much.
It made me really mourn the fact that all the other royal tombs were robbed so early on because they must have been filled with even more beautiful things than Tut's he ruled less than 10 years, and doesn't have any monuments even!

We also saw 3,992,193,249,3943,923thousand pieces of art and statuary that we'd learned about in school, which was so awesome.
We saw the Narmer Palate!! It's a reeeally well preserved palette used for mixing paint or eye make-up and it's dated cerca 3000BC! We talk about it soo much in class because it has all your classic ancient Egyptian art on it, like the king smiting his enemy and captives and then on the other side there is Mesopotamian art. I don't expect anyone else to be excited about this buttttt, other favorites include: statues of Rahotep and his wife Nofret (the perfect example of First Intermediate art), Middle Kingdom funerary models of daily life (aka things I made for art class when I was 8), the only statues ever found of King Kufu, who built the great pyramid (its about three inches tall), statues of the very tired and hard working Senusret III and his sphinxes, the tomb inscription of Weni (which is a wonderful story about a pigmy from Nubia brought to entertain king Teti when he was little. We read the whole thing in class) and jewelry from princess' tombs from the first dynasties up until the Greeks. And most most most important and coolest thing ever: a piece of the Polermo Stone (the whole things is in Polermo, Italy. But the Polermo Stone is one of the most important artifacts of Ancient Egypt because it is a list of all the kings from the first to the fifth dynasty in order, their mothers and the Nile inundation levels. SO cool! <3)
So. I am really truly the happiest girl ever on the planet. I love this place soo much, I'm going to miss it way too much, but I'm also feeling really lucky to be going home in two weeks! I'm getting excited =)
Seeee you soooon Bakoland!!

Saturday, December 4, 2010

On a scale from one to pyramid, it's definitely been a Giza

1 Choir concert to preform
2 papers left to write
3 continents visited
4 friends who make a family
5 New Kingdom sites visited
6 looks like a seven in arabic - ٦
7 school days left
8 arabic words that can get us home in a taxi
10 Old Kingdom Egyptian pyramids visited
19 days left in Cairo




Things worth missing:
Arabic billboards and signs, call to prayer, girls in hijab, watching the sun rise, camels, cheap hookah, cheap things in general, "habibi", arab children (soo cute, and so well behaved!!), stuffed pigeon... (and felafel, kushary, fatir, baklava, etc), Sophie getting into dance battles, Alex skipping and/or sitting on the stoop, hanging out on roof-tops, seafood being called "viagra", Margaux chasing off cats, professors who never take roll, talking about people in front of them because they don't speak english, half built houses, practicing arabic with waiters and bartenders, seeing three people on one motorcycle, yahoo makoob, donkey carts, my arabic teacher- Shadya Fahmy, graphic warning labels on cigarette packs, playing "Mummy" at real monuments with Marg, babies in galabias, haggling, things actually being old, Aaron's mad dance skills, arabic soda cans, the White Desert, house music, feluccas, etc, etc...




Things not worth missing:
Cairo traffic, Cairo CATS, persistent flies, cover fees, cab drivers, sticking out, people smoking in my face, only having McD's and Subway options for food, living a gazillion miles away from everything, the jerks who run the buses, things being filthy, people "clicking" at us, being grabbed on the metro/ street, dealing with Visas, getting lost every day in the cab, squeezing 8 people into Miriam's or Ali's tiny cars, getting creepy facebook messages, Sharm el Sheikh, mean boabs, busses, sharing one shower with 6 strangers, arab movie theaters, Egyptians walking slowly all the time, the Egyptian money system and hearing "no you can't eat here because we can't break a 20$ bill" etc...

(Ok, I'll stop with the lists now because I could do this forever, and I really need to work on my paper...)

First things I will do in the states:
In this order- Hug my mom, squeeze the life out of Andrew, eat bacon, eat an avocado, sit in the front seat of a car, drive to Bakersfield, hug my dad, send a text message, lay on top of my dog, take a bath, make Alyssa, Kyle, Sara and company come to my house, put on a tank top and/or shorts, touch a bible, drink water from the tap, sleep for 5 days, go to Target, drive around looking at xmas lights, develop pictures, drive somewhere alone, see the rest of my family, have Christmas =D

Can't wait to see you Bako!!!



Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Ruh, ruh, random

No exciting updates from me today. But Sophie and Alex got an apartment for next semester, we're going to have dinner there tomorrow night to christen it! And monday night I went dancing at Cairo Jazz club with Margaux, Sophie, Alex, Aaron, Yaz, Miriam and some other girls. It was a jolllly good time. Other then that, I'm writing a term paper and studying for exams, and all that jazz. 
Oh but I skyped with my best friend Alyssa this morning, which made my entire life!! I'm excited to come home/ heart broken to leave. I can't wait to see everybody!



I started sketching again! It's nice to have some inspiration!

Oh and this is my new favorite quote:
“If the world were merely seductive, that would be easy. If it were merely challenging, that would be no problem. But I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day.” - E.B. White